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GEORGES FAVRE-JACOT

Categories: HISTORIC
Published on: November 1, 2014

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 THESE AWESOME TIME PIECES BELONG TO A
FAVORED PATRON

VICTOR VICTORIOUS
FROM THE GREAT LANDS OF RUSSIA

GEORGES FAVRE-JACOT

ZENITH BUMPER

MOVADO ZENITH EL PRIMERO MOVADO

*************************

GEORGES FAVRE JACOT
LOCLC

AND THE BEGINNINGS TO
FAME
BY WAS OF
ZENITH

Three Swiss watch brands dominated the market in Imperial Russian: Heinrich Moser, Pavel Buhre and Georges
Favre-Jacot. Georges Favre-Jacot was founded by Georges Favre-Bulle in 1865 after his apprenticeship in
La Sagne.He began his company from a small workshop in Les Billodes, Le Locle Switzerland.Georges
Faver-Jacot registered the trademark Billodes in 1884In 1896 the firm changed its name to Georges Faver-Jacot
et Cie.The firm registered the trade mark Zenith in 1897 Georges Favre-Jacot (GFJ)
produced a twin key (set time/wind main spring) Billodes Turques movement, between the years of 1881 and 1905.
Georges Favre-Jacot (GFJ) produced four watch lines:

Georges Favre-Jacot
Billodes
Defi
Diogenes

In 1897 he introduced a fifth line:

Zenith

EVENTUALLY ZENITH WOULD BECOME THE SOLE LINE

 GEORGES FAVRE-JACOT

ZENITH BUMPER

MOVADO ZENITH EL PRIMERO MOVADO

******************************************************************

Georges Favre-Jacot
SWIVEL LUG
WRIST WATCH
WITH
Georges Favre-Jacot
Twin Key
Billodes Turques
movement

O8/28/2012
*RUNNING PERFECT
*REQUIRES CLEANING RE-LUBRICATION TIMING
REQUIRES PALLET FORK

COMPLETED

IMG_5300.JPG (234177 bytes)

Georges Favre-Jacot
Twin Key

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VINTAGE LEATHER STRAP
CUSTOMIZED TO FIT
Georges Favre-Jacot

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CENTER STRAP HOLDS WATCH
ALLOWS TIME CHANGE & WINDING
WITHOUT REMOVAL
WHILE ON ARM

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ROCK ALSO ADDED A PIN BACK
CHROME PLATED BRASS SPRING LINE WINDER
IR TAKE TWO KEYS
SIZE “6” TO SET TIME
SIZE “9” TO WIND
THE #6  IS ABOVE

IMG_2043.JPG (118819 bytes)

WE ONLY HAVE OUR MASTER KEYS
SO VICTOR HAS TO BUY A SIZE 9 ONLINE
IT WILL ALSO FIT ON THE SPRING WINDER

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SEE HOW MUCH LINE THE WINDER HAS?

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IT CAN BE PINNED ON JACKET INSIDE JACKET
SHIRT POCKETS WHAT EVER
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THE LEATHER STRAP ALSO FITS IN BETWEEN THE PIN BACK

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BE SURE NOT TO WEAR WITH WHITE OR LIGHT COLOR SHIRTS
UNTIL A FEW DOZEN TIMES OF WEAR
DUE TO THE WAXES AND OILS REQUIRE TIME TO DRY
THEY ARE NOT HARMFUL TO YOUR HEALTH
ONLY LIGHT COLOR WEAR FOR A WHILE

IMG_5291.JPG (146488 bytes)

SHARP

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HERE IS #6 NEEDS A #9
IMG_5290.JPG (135121 bytes)

BAM!

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REQUIRES AN ADDITIONAL #8 MAIN SPRING WINDING KEY

 

IMG_2044.JPG (122850 bytes)

 

IMG_6047.JPG (42867 bytes)

A WATCH IN THE ZENITH REFERENCE BOOK DATING
TO 1875 HAS THIS SAME INSCRIPTION

 

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THIS WONDERFUL EXAMPLE OF A GEORGES FAVRE JACOT
HAD SEVERAL ISSUES AND OF WHICH ONE REMAINS

 

IMG_6045.JPG (53169 bytes)

THE WATCH WAS DISASSEMBLED, INSPECTED AND LIGHTLY CLEANED
THAT MEANS WE DID NOT PLACE IN OUR CLEANING MACHINE
EACH PART WAS SOAKED AND DRIED AND LUBED
JEWELS WERE CLEANED AND LUBED BY HAND
THEN REASSEMBLED TO TEST THE VARIOUS PARTS
THE MAIN SPRING WAS LUBED
WE POLISHED THE BALANCE PIVOTS

WE CAN SEE THE BALANCE IS NOT MOVING

IMG_6044.JPG (49829 bytes)

HERE WE CAN SEE THAT THE BALANCE HAIR SPRING CANNOT BE SEEN
THIS MEANS THIS BABY IS RUNNING STRONG AND PERFECT

DURING OUR INSPECTION WE DISCOVERED THE PROBLEM WAS AND IS THE PALLET FORK
THE BALANCE COCKED TO THE LEFT OF THE PALLET FORK JEWEL SLOT
  THE ROLLER JEWEL IS JUMPING THE PALLET FORK SLOT

THE PROBLEM

1: THE PALLET FORK LOWER PIVOT WAS WORN ENOUGH TO MOVE WHEN SHAKEN
2: SOMEONE ATTEMPTED TO “FIX” THE PALLET FORK AND ACTUALLY BENT IT

IMG_6041.JPG (42416 bytes)

HER WE SEE AFTER 40 SECONDS
IT HAS RUN 24 HOURS BUT

THE PALLET FORK REQUIRES REPLACEMENT

WE BENT THE PALLET BACK TO A REASONABLE POSITION TO GET IT RUNNING
BUT IT COULD JUMP AGAIN AND THE ROLLER JEWEL WILL BE OUT OF THE SLOT

*********************************************************

 

1911 WAS THE YEAR Georges Favre RETIRED AND THE COMPANY
NAME Georges Favre-Jacot” WAS CHANGED TO “Zenith”
MARTEL WATCH CO WAS FOUNDED IN 1911  BY Georges Pellaton-Steudler.

1918

IN 1918 THE WORLDS FIRST CHRONOGRAPH WRIST WATCH WAS INTRODUCED BY UNIVERSAL
*NOTE UNIVERSAL CHANGED IT’S NAME TO UNIVERSAL GENEVE IN 1937.
NOTE: THE DATES AND COMPANIES TO HAVE INTRODUCED THE FIRST WRIST CHRONOGRAPH
IS ACTUALLY UP IN THE AIR.

1922
ZENITH AND UNIVERSAL WERE LOCATED IN Le Locle
THE MARTEL FACTORY WAS LESS THAN 10 KM AWAY
MARTEL HAD DESIGNED CHRONOGRAPH MOVEMENTS
IT HAS BEEN STATED THAT MARTEL BEGAN
TO SUPPLY BOTH COMPANIES WITH MOVEMENTS

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MARTELl WAS THE SUPPLIER OF THE  CHRONOGRAPH MOVEMENTS FROM 1919 TO 1956
MARVIN ALSO DEVELOPED A MODERN AUTOMATIC WITH FULL 360
ROTOR AND DATE WITH MARTEL PRECISION
UNTIL THAT TIME, ZENITH ONLY PRODUCED BUMPER AUTOMATICS.

 

zenithcompaxuniversal-DDD.jpg (192843 bytes)

ABOVE WE HAVE ZENITH UNIVERSAL ADVERTISED IN SAME ADVERT

ZENITH & UNIVERSAL WOULD FOREVER WORK CLOSELY AND ASSIST MARTEL WITH INNOVATIONS

UNIVERSAL AND ZENITH  COOPERATED IN THE FIELD OF CHRONOGRAPHS WITH MARTEL FROM THE BEGINNING;
INVESTING RESOURCES WITH MARTEL. IN FACT RAOUL PERRET, SON OF GEORGES PERRET A CO-FOUNDER OF
UNIVERSAL WATCHES,TOOK OVER UNIVERSAL IN 1933 AND ALSO WAS ON THE BOARD OF ADMINISTRATION
FOR THE ZENITH WATCH COMPANY IN 1925. THUS BOTH UNIVERSAL AND ZENITH HAD THE PRIVILEGE
OF INTRODUCING THE WORLDS MOST ADVANCED COMPLICATED WATCHES FROM 1918 ON.

WORLDS FIRST TWO PUSHER CHRONOGRAPH WRIST WATCH  INTRODUCED IN 1932.
MARTEL MOVEMENT

WORLDS FIRST TWO PUSHER WITH THREE COUNTER CHRONOGRAPH INTRODUCED IN 1933
MARTEL MOVEMENT

IN 1932 ZENITH & UNIVERSAL INTRODUCED SAME CHRONOGRAPH WATCHES
MARTEL WOULD MAKE CHRONOGRAPH MOVEMENTS FOR 37 YEARS (1932-1969)

.zenith1930.jpg (68474 bytes)

 
DIFFERENT MARTEL SIZES M, SUCH AS  12, 13, 14, 15, and 16 lignes WERE UTILIZED AND ZENITH AND UNIVERSAL SIMPLY RENAMED THEM
ZENITH NAMED THEM ACCORDING TO SIZE AS:  cal. 122, 136, 146, 156, 166. UNIVERSAL USED THE NUMBERS 281 and so on
EACH COULD BE MADE WITH TWO OR THREE COUNTER. SUCH AS THE: cal. 136 D and cal.136 H.

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A-universa-ZENITH BUMPER.jpg (15370 bytes)
ABOVE WE FIND ZENITH & UNIVERSAL
NOTE WATCH ON LEFT IS A BUMPER AUTOMATIC
IT IS SIGNED

ZENITH

BUMPER

********************************

RESTORED STAINLESS ZENITH HIGH-END
20J HIGH FREQUENCY BUMPER AUTOMATIC

NEW MAIN SPRING
REFINISH DIAL
WE HAVE TO REFINISH CASE

COMPLETED

 

IMG_2039.JPG (141217 bytes)

DIAL RESTORED
HANDS CLEANED POLISHED
CASE REFINISHED

MOVEMENT

 

CENTER WHEEL
MAINSPRING
MAINSPRING 1.20-.11-318

RUNNING GREAT
HAD SOME MAIN SPRING SLIP BUT SHOULD TIGHTEN AGAINST WALL
[ AUTOMATICS DO NOT LOCK MADE TO SLIP]

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***************************************************

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DIAL RESTORED TO
PERFECT
ORIGINAL CONDITION

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OPERATES LIKE NEW
WITH

NEW MAINSPRING
FULL CLEANING
SERVICING

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ALL STAINLESS STEEL

 

IMG_6051.JPG (36475 bytes)

ZENITH 20 JEWEL SWISS BARS
RHODIUM PLATED 26000 BPH Ca:133.8

 IMG_6088.JPG (31077 bytes)

EVEN THE CROWN IS ORIGINAL

&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&

 

ZENITH BUMPER AUTOMATIC
NUMBER TWO

REQUIRES ROTOR

RECEIVED A ROTOR
JAN 29 2013

IMG_6053.JPG (30070 bytes)

ZENITH BUMPER AUTOMATIC NUMBER TWO

IMG_6054.JPG (49168 bytes)

THIS MOVEMENT WITH SWISS BARS IS A 133
IT REQUIRES A ROTOR
WE WILL SERVICE AFTER WE FIND THE ROTOR

****************************************

 

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[1958 – 1960]
ZENITH PURCHASED THE MARTEL WATCH ALONG WITH ALL EQUIPMENT. 

THE ZENITH MARTEL cal. 25×2 WAS  UTILIZED FOR HAND WOUND WATCHES
IT WOULD BECOME THE MAIN ZENITH MOVEMENT DURING FROM *1960 THROUGH 1975
[*WITH UPDATES TO THE MOVEMENT TO KEEP WITH THE TIMES AND ADVANCEMENTS]

 

***1969 Zenith INTRODUCED THE MOST FAMOUS TIME PIECE IN HISTORY (THIS WRITERS BELIEF)
THE HIGH FREQUENCY El PRIMERO AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH 
THE EL PRIMERO THREE COUNTER, DATE W/QUICK SET, ULTRA THIN WITH 36000 BPH 2

In 1971 ZENITH INTRODUCED THE FIRST AUTOMATIC CHRONO WITH FULL CALENDAR AND MOONPHASE “ESPADA”

 

IN 1972 THE AMERICAN COMPANY  Zenith (radio and television) PURCHASED ZENITH WATCHES

ZENITH HAD, FOR DECADES, ONE DESIRE. TO DESTROY ZENITH WATCH CO.

THE US COMPANY ZENITH  HAD BATTLED  ZENITH WATCH COMPANY OVER THE NAME ZENITH.

IN 1975, AFTER MILKING ZENITH FOR ALL IT COULD ZENITH RADIO/TV ORDERED ZENITH WATCHES TO
S PRODUCTION OF MECHANICAL MOVEMENTS AND FOR MARTEL TO S  PRODUCTION
OF CHRONOGRAPH MOVEMENTS, AND THEN, AFTER DESTROYING ALL THE MARTEL TOOLING TOOLS,    SOLD THE MARTEL BUILDING.

 

“Charles Vermot chef of ébauches production at Zenith,  went against the Zenith  foreign orders and saved many tools,
machines as well as know-how from the Martel building, which all proved to be very valuable for Zenith ten years later
in 1985 when the El Primero was revived. Charles Vermot was a visionary and saved the finest tools and machines from
the Martel plant in Ponts-de Martel.”

 

http://www.zenith-watches.com/en/#/manufacture/saga/el-primero/saving-el-primero/movie

 

**********************************************************************************

MOVADO
[ZENITH]
EL PRIMERO
AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH WITH DATE

THIS IS AN OVERHAULED
ZENITH MOVADO
AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH
THE A ZENITH  EL PRIMERO

IMG_5274.JPG (140434 bytes)

COMPLETED

ALL FEATURES WORK

CROWN
BASED: WINDS WATCH
ONE OUT: SETS TIME
THIRD OUT: SETS DATE

THE ONLY CROWN WE COULD FIND THAT FIT INTO
CROWN TUBE AND FIT THE OUTSIDE STEM TUBE IS
SLIGHTLY THINNER IN WIDTH

ROCKER

ROCKER
ONE SNAP STARTS CHRONO
SECOND SNAP SS CHRONO

BOTTOM ROCKER
RESETS CENTER HAND

AMG_5234.jpg (58744 bytes)

IF YOU HAVE A SIMILAR MOVEMENT AND ARE HAVING PROBLEMS WITH CENTER
SECONDS NOT COMPLETING MOTION AT 12 NUMBER READ THE BELOW FACTS.
THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM

THE KNOWN PROBLEM THAT CAN OCCUR IN THESE MOVEMENTS
IS THE COUNTER WHEEL CONTROL ARM MOVES OUT OF POSITION

A  SIMPLE ADJUSTMENT FIXES THIS PROBLEM SHOULD IT OCCUR
COUNTER WHEEL CONTROL ARM
– OUR EASY TO EXPLAIN TERM –

PROBLEM
CENTER SWEEP SECONDS HAND
SPING RIGHT BEFORE “12”
CORRECTING ADJUSTMENT

REMOVE CASE BACK
NOTE THE PIC ABOVE AND THE SMALLER BLUE-BLACK SCREW ON RIGHT
TO CORRECT
SLIGHT TURN THEN TEST
MAY BE LEFT OR RIGHT

CLICK TO LOOK AT PICTURE WITH TWO SCREWS THE ONE ABOVE
AND THE CONTACT ADJUSTMENT ON THE LEFT DO NOT TOUCH LARGER BLUE-BLACK SCREW ON UPPER LEFT

IMG_5265.JPG (143676 bytes)

STORE OF CROWNS

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MAN, THE STEM SITUATION WAS HORRENDOUS
ROCK USED A STEM EXTENDER, STEM, TORCH, SOLDER. DOUBLE FITTED WATERPROOF CROWN
AND THE RED STUFF
$27.00 A BOTTLE

 

IMG_5258.JPG (127281 bytes)IMG_5248.JPG (139960 bytes)IMG_5304.JPG (133213 bytes)IMG_5250.JPG (136815 bytes)

IMG_5251.JPG (104765 bytes)IMG_5249.JPG (108652 bytes)IMG_5303.JPG (145734 bytes)IMG_5238.JPG (143941 bytes)

FITTING EXTENDER

 

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IMG_5246.JPG (127450 bytes)IMG_5243.JPG (121076 bytes)
IMG_5267.JPG (102978 bytes)IMG_5244.JPG (149083 bytes)

 

IMG_5305.JPG (156211 bytes)

PROBLEM IS 7.5 BRACELET DOES NOT ALLOW LARGER WRISTS

IMG_5269.JPG (155135 bytes)

NOTE: THE ORIGINAL NOW ORANGE COLOR SYNTHETIC/RUBBER GASKET
HAD TO BE UTILIZED. BUT IN ACTUAL VIEW, IT DOES NOT SHOW AS THE
ENLARGED PHOTOS  ON THIS PAGE

 

IMG_5270.JPG (122981 bytes)

    NOTE: THE ORIGINAL NOW ORANGE COLOR SYNTHETIC/RUBBER GASKET
HAD TO BE UTILIZED. BUT IN ACTUAL VIEW, IT DOES NOT SHOW AS THE
ENLARGED PHOTOS  ON THIS PAGE

NOTE THE CROWN IS A MM OR SO OFF CASE.
IT WAS THE ONLY CROWN AVAILABLE
THOUGH ONE MAY COME ONE DAY
DOES NOT EFFECT ANYTHING. CROWN IS DOUBLE FIT
IN TUBE AND OUT

I FACT IN DATE SETTING MODE
WITH CROWN IN EXTREME OUT POS
3/4 + OF THE CROWN TUBE IS BOTH IN THE CROWN
AND
THE INNER SEAL IS ALL THE WAY IN THE TUBE

IMG_5303.JPG (145734 bytes)

NEW CUSTOM CUT THICK THICK THICK CRYSTAL FIT THE OLD
RUBBER/SYNTHETIC SEAL PERFECTLY

 

IMG_5217.JPG (190446 bytes)

DIAL AND DATE WHEEL
BOTH IN EXCELLENT NEAR MINT CONDITION
SOME METAL WORK WAS REQUIRED

IMG_5232.JPG (157192 bytes)

DIAL AND BEZEL INSERT
NEARLY LIKE NEW

 

IMG_5231.JPG (143959 bytes)

THE ORANGE COLOR LINES IS AN ORIGINAL THICK RUBBER ALLOY SEAL
HARDLY NOTICEABLE AT ACTUAL SIZE
THE NEW CUSTOM CUT CRYSTAL TOOK ABOUT 3 HOURS TO CUT & POLISH YET 2 MONTHS OF TIME]

IMG_5228.JPG (140674 bytes)

CASE IS REFINISHED
WE LEFT SOME MARS HERE AND THERE TO INSURE WE DID NOT
CUT THE LINES AND BEVELS ON THIS RARE UNIQUE
GRADE HEAVY HEAVY HEAVY STEEL BRACELET
THE WATCH IS COMPLETE BUT OUR PATRON ASKED FOR LINK EXTENSIONS
WE ARE PRESENTLY ATTEMPTING TO DISCOVER A SOLUTION
WE MAY HAVE TO CAST SOMETHING IN SILVER
OR?????????????

 

IMG_5229.JPG (128500 bytes)

NOTE THE STEEL LINES
VERY DIFFICULT TO REMOVE DAMAGE THEN FINISH
IT IS NOT A SIMPLE BRUSH FINISH

IMG_5234.JPG (140000 bytes)

NOTE: THE COUNTER/SWEEPS   ADJUSTMENT IS THE
SMALLER BLUE-BLACK SCREW
TO RIGHT ABOVE

DO NOT TOUCH THE LARGER BLUE BLACK SCREW ABOVE AND TO LEFT OF THE COUNTER ADJUSTMENT
THE LARGER LEFT SCREW ADJUSTS THE CONTACT POSITION FOR THE CENTER SWEEP HAND AND SECONDS RUNNING WHEEL

 

IMG_5214.JPG (151098 bytes)

YES. AWESOME
AFTER OVERHAUL
WITH DATE WHEEL STILL REMOVED
ROCK RUNS THIS BEAUTY THROUGH THE PACES
HERE CHRONO START S RESET IS BEING TESTED
THE MOVEMENT WS RUN FOR AN ENTIRE WEEK
THE CHRONO FEATURES TESTED OFF AND ON DURING THAT WEEK

IMG_5224.JPG (158217 bytes)

MOST VINTAGE MOVEMENTS HAVE WHAT ROCK CALLS AS SCARRED MOVEMENTS
AFTER TOTAL OVERHAULING A SCARRED & DISCOLORED MOVEMENT
THE MOVEMENT RETAINS MUCH OF THE SCARRING AND DISCOLORATION

IMG_5215.JPG (166294 bytes)

BUT AS YOU CAN SEE, NOT THE WELL SEALED 31 JEWEL ZENITH!

3019 PHC
Zenith 3019PHC El PRIMERO
ca. 1969: Movado Factories, 31 Jewels, 3019PC, Swiss, Swiss Made; Incabloc
(Movado 3019PHC)

Features
automatic chronograph, 60s, 30min, 12h, pillar wheel
sub second
date: quickset

Data
13.5”’, Dm= 30.0mm
H= 6.5mm
17/31 jewels
f = 36000 A/h
power reserve 50h

 

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12 WWII RESTORES

******************************************

restored serviced warranted appraised watches in america >-->
100 restored vintage watches >--->
go to gsw mwb vintage watches

wpe160.jpg (2297 bytes)

Pocket Watch Conversions + Trench Watches
VIETNAM ERA US GOV ISSUE WATCHES
UNISSUED AMERICAN WWII MILITARY WATCHES 
INTRODUCTION TO ISSUED GERMAN MILITARY WATCHES
INTRODUCTION TO JAPANESE MILITARY WATCHES
INTRODUCTION TO BRITISH WWI WWII MILITARY WATCHES
INTRODUCTION TO KOREAN WAR GLYCINE AIRMAN
A HISTORY OF AVIATORS WATCHES N

 
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